Plain-English definitions

Hair Color and Extensions Glossary

Salon menus and consultations use a lot of terms that sound alike. Here is what each one means, so you know what to ask for.

Color techniques

Babylights

Very fine, delicate highlights woven through the hair for a soft, natural brightness. They are finer than traditional foil highlights.

Balayage

A freehand-painting technique where lightener is applied by hand to create soft, sun-kissed dimension that grows out without a harsh line.
In the chair
“Balayage just means we hand-paint the lightness where the sun would naturally hit, so it grows out soft and lived-in with no harsh line, and you’re not stuck in my chair every six weeks.”
Nonia Wolf

Blonding

The process of lightening hair to a blonde shade. Depending on your starting color, it can take more than one step and usually finishes with a toner.

Dimensional color

Color that uses more than one tone, lighter and darker, so hair looks like it has depth instead of one flat shade.

Foil highlights

Sections of hair are lightened and wrapped in foil. Placement is more uniform and defined than balayage.

Gray coverage

Color that covers gray hair, from full coverage to a softer blend.

Lowlights

Darker strands added to hair to bring back depth or contrast, often alongside lighter highlights.

Ombré

A gradual shift from darker roots to lighter ends. It is a more noticeable gradient than balayage.

Root shadow

A darker color blended at the root into a lighter length, so the transition looks gradual.

Root smudge

A softly blended color at the root that smooths the line between your natural color and lighter hair, so grow-out looks gentler.

Color chemistry and tone

Color correction

Fixing color that did not turn out as intended or is uneven, for example patchy lightening or a tone that is too warm.

Developer

The activating cream mixed with hair color or lightener. Its strength changes how much the product lifts or deposits, so your stylist chooses it for your hair.

Double process

A color service done in two steps, usually lightening first and then applying a toner or a second color.

Gloss

A light, translucent treatment that adds shine and can refresh or adjust tone without a big change. Some stylists use the word interchangeably with toner.

Level

A 1 to 10 scale for how light or dark hair is, with 1 as black and 10 as the lightest blonde. Stylists use it to plan how far to lift your color.

Lightener

The product that removes color from hair so it can be lifted to a lighter shade. People often call it bleach.

Regrowth (grow-out)

The new growth at your roots that shows as your natural color grows in under colored hair.

Tone and undertone

The warmth or coolness of a shade. Warm tones lean gold, copper or red. Cool tones lean ash, beige or violet.

Toner

A treatment used after lightening to shift hair toward the tone you want, such as cooler or more neutral. It does not lighten hair.
In the chair
“Toner is the step that makes your blonde go from ‘just lightened’ to your shade: it cancels out brass and sets the tone, but it fades over time, so think of it as the glow-up you refresh, not a forever thing.”
Nonia Wolf

Smoothing and styling

Blowout

A wash and blow-dry style that smooths and shapes hair. It is temporary and lasts until your next wash.

Keratin smoothing treatment

A smoothing service that coats and relaxes the hair to reduce frizz and make hair easier to style. It is not permanent straightening.

Extensions

Consultation

A conversation before color or extensions where your stylist looks at your hair, discusses your goals and plans the service.

Hand-tied extensions

Thin wefts of hair that are secured to your natural hair in rows by hand, without heat or glue.

K-tip extensions

Individual strands of hair attached to your natural hair with small keratin tips that are bonded on with heat.

Move-up

The maintenance appointment where extensions are moved up toward the scalp as your natural hair grows. How often depends on the method and your stylist’s advice.

Tape-in extensions

Wefts with an adhesive strip that sandwich a thin section of your natural hair.

Weft

A strip of hair sewn or bonded together along one edge. Several extension methods use wefts.
Still not sure which one you need?

Talk it through at a consultation

Bring photos of what you like. Your stylist will look at your hair and plan the service with you.